Per Se ✼✼✼
Location: New York, NY
Visit Date: September 21, 2019
“Opened in 2004, Per Se is Thomas Keller’s acclaimed New York interpretation of The French Laundry in the Time Warner Center at Columbus Circle. Designed by Adam D. Tihany, Per Se features a serene and intimate environment with spectacular views of Central Park and Columbus Circle.
The restaurant is Chef Keller’s second three-Michelin-starred property featuring his daily nine-course tasting menu and a nine-course vegetable tasting menu using classic French technique and the finest quality ingredients available. An award-winning wine list, boasting more than 2,000 bottles, complements the menu. The list highlights a collection of older wines as well as wines from small producers that are released in limited quantities. Per Se is a member of French-based associated Relais & Chateaux, Relais Gourmands and Traditions & Qualité organizations, recognized for their dedication to maintaining the highest international standards for hospitality and culinary excellence.”
Food
Celery Root “Velouté” Parmesan “Moussline” | Chive Blossom | Black Winter Truffle
“Oysters and Pearls” | “Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca | Island Creek Oysters | Regiis Ova Caviar
Royal Ossetra Caviar | Maine Lobster | Brioche Melba | Pickled Pearl Onion
Hen Egg Custard | “Ragoût” of Black Winter Truffles
Salad of Crenshaw Melons | Ibérico Ham | Easter Egg Radishes | Marcona Almonds| Charred Haas Avocado Mousse
“Pastrami” of Hudson Valley Moulard Duck Foie Gras | Candy Snap Grapes | Candied Virginia Peanuts | Celery Branch | Greek Yogurt
“Sashimi” of Montauk Fluke | Persian Cucumbers | Granny Smith Apples | Soft Tofu | Scallion Vinaigrette
Norwegian Langoustines “Poêlées” | Caraflex Cabbage | Honeynut Squash Purée | Toasted Pumpkin Seeds | “Beurre Noisette”
Four Story Hill Farm “Suprême De Poularde” | Cauliflower Florettes | Creamed Spinach | French Leeks | “Gastrique Béarnaise”
Snake River Farms “Calotte De Bceuf” | Dry-Aged Beef “Chorizo” | Sunny Side Up Quail Egg | “Pommes Purée | Marinated Sungold Tomatoes
Maplebrook Farms “Burratini” | Stewed Black Mission Figs | Young Fennel Bulb | Pine Nuts |Aged Balsamic Vinegar
“Éclair Aux Fruits D’Été” | Tristar Strawberries | Yuzu “Pâte de Fruit” | O’ Henry Peaches
Diane St. Clair’s Animal Farm Butter Ice Cream | Per Se “Honeycomb”
K+M “Nicaragua” Chocolate “Crémeux” | Caramelized White Chocolate Toffee | Gosling’s Black Seal Rum | Okinawa Sugar | Redlands Passion Fruit
“Mignardises”
MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
“An experience at Thomas Keller’s Per Se is one to be savored, treasured, recounted and remembered. Once you’ve been welcomed by the charming team, the somewhat incongruous feeling of riding an escalator up to such a place will soon be forgotten, as will the Time Warner Center itself.
However, even with those stunning cityscape views afforded by the large windows—and the clever design of the room whereby all tables get to look out—your attention won’t stray far from the plate in front of you. Such is the appeal of the dishes.
There are two tasting menus, one of which is vegetarian. They do offer alternatives using extra-lavish ingredients at eye-wateringly expensive supplements but unless you’re richer than Croesus, you really needn’t consider them as the “standard” dishes provide all the flavor and luxury you’ll need. Just put yourself in the chef's hands and enjoy a meal that is balanced, varied and as seasonal as it gets. The kitchen’s sourcing is legendary and will make you think again about ingredients you consider familiar. For instance, the milk-poached poularde is so exceptionally succulent and flavorsome that any chicken you subsequently sample will seem a disappointment.”
Page Last Updated: July 15, 2021